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Thursday 26 March 2009

One week in Santiago de Chile, a change of scenery!

I couldn't contain the excitement of me landing to South America...it must have been for the similarity with the culture with mine, for the long lasting love for tango, for my favourite movie and book "The house of Spirits"...and for all the other Isabel Allende's stories...but I was really happy to land in South America. First stop, Santiago de Chile.

Photo by Maria Teresa Salvati
I wasn't planning to do too much in a week, because New Zealand had literally sucked all the energy, so I was more looking forward to learn something about the history, get myself into cultural activities and sip great red wine while eating superb meat!
Most of the experience in Chile met the expectations...however, the change of scenery with the previous Thailand, Australia and New Zealand was clear, especially in terms of security...or the sensation of it, at least!

The first night arrived in Santiago, I went for a walk in the very central Plaza de Armas with a guy met at the (very central) hostel; in only 5 minutes I saw a couple of tourists being mugged, a homeless man laying on the floor bleeding and surrounded by people trying to call an ambulance, which didn't arrive even after half an hour and two guys fighting with a big metal chain.
Bear in mind that Santiago is considered the safest city in South America!

I met Joe (an English teacher from London) in a restaurant the day after I arrived!
In Plaza de Armas, again, I was having something resembling to a pizza and a guy at the next table was approached by a homeless man that started talking to him. Joe didn't get a word of what he was saying so didn't reply. All of a sudden, the man stole his burger and left! Joe looked around, clearly to share that moment of "incredulity"...and that's how he found my eyes looking at him with the same feeling! What do you do in these cases?? You laugh!!
So, we started to talk and share our brief South American stories. He's in Chile for one year teaching English in a private school, just moved in Santiago 2 days before we met.
Both hadn't seen anything of the city, so it seemed nice to go around and discover the city together, at least I could look after his meal and him of my camera! ;)

We went to Sant Cristobal mount with the funicular, where you can see al the city from the top! It's a very religious place, where silence and "meditation" reign! We had a bit of laugh, admired the city and took some pictures.
We went, by chance to the barrio Bellavista - well, he wanted to go but didn't know how and we arrived to the right place anyway...a lovely neighbourhood with coloured houses, painted walls with Gregory Isaac, Bob Marley and other inspiring people's faces.
Stopped to a very stylish place, had something to eat and tried the Pisco Sour...a local drink very strong, made with something stronger than vodka, lime and sugar! Well, at 4pm we were a bit, let's say, tipsy ;)

Photo by Maria Teresa Salvati

So, we continued exploring the city moving to barrio Brazil...met two Americans travelling and volunteering in Santiago that gave us some good tips of what to do in the city...had a strong and creative coffee and moved to the next place: "la vaca ingorda", a restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet as the best place to eat a perfect meat steak. It was absolutely perfect! I remember saying "Oh My God" at every bite, accompained by an absolutely superb Chilenian wine.
That's what I was after, landing to South America!

The following days, in the hostel I met Gabriella, a dentist from Texas trying to move to Santiago for her big passion for the South American culture, meat, wine and especially salsa!
I met 2 lovely Uruguanian cousins, Martin and Fabian, they were in Santiago because Paola, Martin's sister, a very famous house music dj, was going to perform at a party for the end of the most famous festival in South America, the Vina del Mar festival.
Ah, and one of the biggest celebrities here is Paolo Meneguzzi, an Italian singer. I saw ladies, young and not pulling their hair off for him, crying and screaming...mah!!!

It was also pretty refreshing to discover that Uruguanians are more proud of their Nation than me. Now, if you see me abroud I sound like someone hired from the Italian Government to promote the Nation abroad hearing how patriotic I am! Uruguanians compete very well! According to them, they have the best meat, the best douce de leche, the best playas and the tango has been invented (or has bourne) in Montevideo...why? Because tango borns with Gardel, which is from Uruguay, but moved to Buenos Aires as it was a richer city. Now, tango, really borns in France, earlier than Gardel, but Fabian didn't want to hear that! In the end, it's nice to live with your own convictions! I also, strongly believe that Italy is the most beautiful country in the world and I don't accept any proof of the contrary! :)

The weekend, Martin, Fabian, Gabrielle and I went to a stylish club/bar where Paola was going to perform, in Santiago...it was a very fun night...the mojtos were so strong that after the third one, I was completely knocked out and asked Fabian to put me in a taxi and send me to the hostel...
I remember meeting Antonio, Paola's manager and a lot of other men...at a certain point I was surrounded by so many men and I was looking for friendly faces to rescue me! But, no panic! They were all gay!! In the end, that bar was too cool.

Had a great week in Santiago...didn't do too much, but saw many museums, explored the city, had great meat and wine (other than these two meal, the rest of the food sucks), met great people and made myself ready to Buenos Aires.

Sunday 22 March 2009

Makarora and Queenstown with a jump in the sky

Left Franz Joseph, we moved south towards Makarora, passing by Mt Cook and other absolutely stunning sightseeings...

Photo by Maria Teresa Salvati
Mt Cook was named this way after Captain James Cook arrived and it's one of the highest mountains in New Zealand with its 3,764 metres. It's surrounded by an amazing National Park and if the day it's clear, you can see the reflection of the mount in the lake...it's pretty spectacular, though we weren't that lucky! It was slightly breezy and the reflection wasn't as the ones you see in the postcards, but hey...look at the pictures! :)

And the surprises never end in New Zealand...when you feel you've seen a stunning place, ready to digest it and maybe write some emotions on a paper, there you are invaded by another storm of sensations!
Photo by Maria Teresa Salvati
In fact, Beggins told us that if we wanted, just with a 30 minutes walk, we could see happy water falls! Well, is not the Iguazu Falls, but it was really cool...around the Thunder Creek Falls there was an absolute tourqoise water where the bravest of us jumped and had a quick swim, before heading back to the next stop!

Steve and I were finally brought to the place where to jump with a 45 seconds free fall, before the parachutes opens! Skydive, yeah!!!
Eugene, my master kept saying that he had learned just the day before how to jump, so he hoped all went well! He was a fun guy, with half Italian blood!
What can I say?? If I had more money left I'd definitely do it again!! It was definitely the highlight of my trip in terms of emotions...pure adrenaline!! Nothing to be scared about...except that (apparently) a few months before a guy that was jumping with his master got in a bit of troubles...the master had a heart attack and the guy, when realised what was going on, managed to unlock the emergency parashute...and, while he was safe, the master died! I have to say that they didn't explain us what to do in case of emergency!!! Ouch...
Apart this isolated episode, if you can, jump!! It's worth it!

And then we arrived in Queenstown where we had a big night in the Base bar and most of us was ready for some activity!!
Queenstown is the "adventure capital of the world" where you can do every type of activities you can imagine! I'd say, 80% of our bus signed in for the bungy jumping!! Here there is one of the highest point to jump in the world...if I remember well, it was around 240 metres high...I only saw pictures and videos and I had headache only at seeing them!! Not for me, for sure!! For some reason I feel bungy is the too scary for me!!

Christchurch was the last destination...a quick city wondering around with Carston, some great pictures at the botanic garden and in the streets...

Photo by Maria Teresa Salvati

....and I was ready to leave New Zealand for South America!

Monday 16 March 2009

Hiking on the Franz Joseph glacier

Continuing the trip in the South Island of NZ, we passed by the amazing Franz Joseph glacier! One of those things you have to do in life (or at least when you travel the world) is hiking a glacier, apparently!



Franz Joseph is unique in the fact that it descends from the Southern Alps to less than 300 metres above sea level amidst the greenery and lushness of a temperate rainforest, and it is also one of only three glaciers to come so close to a coastline - the other two being Fox glacier southern than this and the Perito Moreno in the South of Argentina.

Steve and I managed to upset a really cool and laid back Beggins ;)
As we were too keen to do the skydive, and we were going to stay in Franz Joseph for only one day, we booked for half day hiking and the skidive for the rest of the day...except that when we went to the tour operator for the hiking, we paid and booked the full day (8 hours of walking on the ice) and didn´t cancel the skidive! Well...Beggins was pissed off because he had booked for us the skidive! For some reason we thought we could extend the day of a few hours! ;)

All good what ends well! The hiking was quite a unique experience...lots of fun with the small group too, including Annelie, Victor, some Irish girls and boy, Carston and the guide, Andy...a blond new zealander that helped us creating a path all the way to the (almost) top of the glacier!

I got stacked between two walls of ice at the hight of the chest (let´s say chest)!! What can I do?? I got some help, but it was embarassing and fun at the same time!!
By the end of the 8 hours we could barely move muscles, including the face ones for smiling! I still remember Steve´s face ;)